Saturday, April 8, 2017

April 9, 2017 1145 Vietnam Time Da Nang

While Thong is in Hoi An on a guiding assignment, I'm taking some hours to catch up the blog and restructure my schedule. I had my itinerary, lodging included, nailed down until a glitch two days ago tossed a monkey wrench into my plans. Tomorrow I will travel via train or bus to Hue, as scheduled. But, everything changes thereafter. The plan was to travel from Hue to Dong Ha/Nhi Ha.  However, I was informed two days past that the twenty female piglets won't be available until April 22. So, now my plan is to travel to Dong Ha April 20 with a departure of April 23. Writing tablets will be distributed to Nhi Ha school kids April 21, with piglets the following day.

Yesterday a car was hired for the purpose of traveling to the LZ Colt area for visits to The, Duong, and Thua.  Duong, who lost both legs serving in the 196th Light Infantry as a Kit Carson Scout, was the first stop.  Considering his disability, he seems to be doing OK. The TV, fan, and rice cooker that we have gifted are working well. He is regularly taking the vitamins and joint meds that I provided last year. The water well, 71 meters in depth, that we had drilled last summer has proven to be an obvious benefit to Duong.  Rather than a pressure-sensitive switch, which I had requested, a manual switch was installed. Regardless, he has plenty of good water. I left him with in excess of a year's supply of ibuprofen, vitamins, and a triple-acting joint supplement.  I also provided food treats and cash. Duong will notify Thong in two months regarding the effectiveness of the joint supplement.

The next stop was to visit Son's mother, Lady The. This dear lady is hanging in there fairly well for 95 years of age. Like Duong, The has been diligent in her consumption of the vitamins and other supplements provided last year. In my view, her mobility is diminished from last year. But, she wishes to continue to use her old stick for walking, discarding my offer of a walker. In addition to food treats and a supply of vitamins, ibuprofen, and joint supplements, I presented Lady The with enough cash to purchase food for some months. I insisted that Thong emphasize to Phung, her son,  that the money is intended solely for the benefit of The. She was expecting a doctor's visit that afternoon. Phung obliged my request to transport me via motorbike to Son's grave, where I lit incense.

It was a short drive down a narrow path to Thua's house, where my smiling comrade awaited. He, too, served with the 196th Light Infantry. Thua's health seems to be very good and he has little complaint. It was two years ago that he first mentioned joint pain. So, last year he was given vitamins, ibuprofen, and a joint supplement. Again this year, Thua was given a supply of these vitamins/supplements. However, this year I brought a new triple-acting joint supplement, which my research shows to be superior. He will advise Thong in two months as to its effectiveness. Food treats were given, much to the delight of hovering children. I also happily served as the delivery person for a generous monetary gift from an American 196th Infantry veteran who had served with Thua during the war.  Thua is a humble, hard-working, unassuming, appreciative, and honorable man.

With the visits completed, we headed back on the 1 1/2-hour drive to Da Nang. En route, we stopped at the main gate to former LZ Baldy, which is now an active Vietnamese military base. Following many months in the field, I was stationed at Baldy as a perimeter guard on bunker #8 until my time to head home.

Thong and I have been invited to have dinner tonight with a student and her parents. The student is studying the English language, so it will be interesting.

Although not relative to yesterday's activities, I've included a photo of LZ East that was taken from the train two days past. 

It's off to Hue tomorrow....

Neil
Duong's Well

Lady The

LZ East from Train

Neil at Son's Grave

Neil with Thua's Family

Neil, The & Phung

Son's Grave

Thong & Neil Approaching Duong's House

Thua & Neil


April 7 Blog Correction

Two grammatical oversights relative to the April 7 post have been brought to my attention by cousin Bruce, aka Turd Hammer. The post has been corrected.

Now on to more important business, such as creating a post detailing the events of yesterday. Also, a significant alteration of schedule has become necessary, which demands cancelling/rebooking lodging arrangements and transportation. I've little time today to accomplish the above, so please grade blog grammar on a curve. It seems that I'm always under the gun and trying to perform on the fly.

Neil

Friday, April 7, 2017

April 7, 2017 2100 Vietnam Time Da Nang


This writing finds Thong & me on the 10-hour train trip from Nha Trang to Da Nang, which involved rolling out of bed at 0300. Each of my three mornings in Vietnam thus far has involved  such early rising. Train travel is superior to bus, which basically just runs Highway 1, a main artery for U.S. military movement during the war. The train offers nice views of the serene rural countryside. It seems to me that arrival in Da Nang is 1415 or so.

My first time in Da Nang was July ’68, when I was flying out for  a 5-day R & R in Singapore. It was also my first break from the action of the field since joining my infantry company in February.  I recall how good that shower felt after the filth of five months in the field. I had no advance warning of the R & R. A resupply helicopter was bringing in supplies when someone shouted, “Hannan. R & R”.  I had no choice as to when or where I’d go. Anyway, I just grabbed my rucksack & M-79 and jumped on the chopper. At the time, I think that there were only 4-5 men from my hometown of Versailles, Ohio serving in ‘Nam. Wouldn’t you know it.  While standing on the tarmac in Da Nang awaiting the plane, I was startled by someone tapping me on the shoulder. “What the hell”, I thought. Turning around, I saw Gary Davidson, aka G-Man, from Versailles. By coincidence, we ended up in the same time slot for R & R.  I believe that he was going to Taipei. Small world, huh?

A smiling Col. Tha warmly greeted Thong & me at 1100 hours yesterday at his home. We were honored to have been invited to join in the family celebration on the anniversary of the death of Tha’s mother, who died quite young in 1941. Tha’s father died just 4 years later in 1945. The circumstance surrounding their deaths was not discussed, but my gut feeling is that it involved the ongoing conflict with the French aggressors, who were finally expelled after being annihilated in 1954 at Dien Ben Phu. Following the death of his parents, Tha had joined in the fighting against the French and remained in the military through the “American War”.  That’s a whole lot of battle, folks.

After initial greetings, Tha, Thong, and I climbed the three-story spiral mahogany staircase to the altar commemorating Tha’s mother. At 90 years, Tha made the ascent with relative ease. We each stood before the altar & bowed twice with clasped hands, as is the custom.  Then Tha presented me with very special gifts of great significance. First came a multiple-page writing that Tha advised contained important military information relative to his interaction with the 196th Light Infantry at Nhi Ha/DMZ in May ’68. It’s written in Vietnamese, so I’ll need to have in translated. Over and over Tha made reference to its significance and asked that I make sure that all U. S. troops involved in that battle have access….especially officers.  This information has never before been released and  I am honored to be considered worthy. I am most anxious to have someone translate, a task for which I’ll have to provide compensation. This has to be accurate, so using Google or a similar translation method is out of the question. Really, this is huge.

The next gift was a very neat wooden pen in a wooden case…unusual as can be. Then came two photos from our first meeting that he had printed and laminated for me. That 2015 initial encounter was a special moment for each of us. Meeting the enemy with whom you fought in brutal battle is a sobering experience….especially when that enemy was the NVA battalion commander.

Last year Tha surprised me by presenting his doctor ID badge, an unbelievable honor for someone who is not family. Following the war’s 1975 ending, he had gone to medical school to become a physician, a profession that he practiced until 85 years of age in 2012.  Well, as if the badge wasn’t enough of an honor, yesterday he topped it by presenting his doctor smock and cap. Amazing. Col. Tha treats me like one of the family. He wanted me to don the smock and cap, a request that I obliged…fits perfectly.

Tha’s gifts to me certainly surpassed mine to him. I gave a 400-count bottle of adult multi-vitamins, a 250-count container of ibuprofen, and a brass “U.S.” color insignia from my dress uniform.  80% of vitamins, pain relievers, and such purchased in Vietnam are fake, by the way. So, I bring these items with me in luggage. I also presented a laminated copy of the Copper River Record, which contained an excellent feature by Matt Lorenz involving the ongoing humanitarian effort in Vietnam as well as last year’s retrieval of Lt. Kimball’s razor from the colonel.  Tha asked if the Kimball family was pleased to receive the razor after all these years, to which I responded with an emphatic affirmative.

There was an obvious effort on the part of Col. Tha and his son, mayor of Nha Trang, to avoid battle specifics. Each time I would make an inquiry about the Nhi Ha battle, there was no focus on responding. Finally I asked Thong, my interpreter and friend, why no answers were forthcoming. He quietly responded,  “They want to shield you from bad memories”.  My former foe now wishes to cast our horrors of battle as “the past”.  If only it were that easy. For me, it is an unfortunate impossibility.

I did, however, mange to learn an interesting bit of information from Tha.  His focus in the May Nhi Ha/DMZ battle was to attack the  Marine 2/4 (2nd Battalion, 4th Marines). But, when the 196th Light Infantry arrived, his plans came unraveled. We were exactly where he didn’t want us to be. Had he engaged 2/4, his flanks and rear would have been very vulnerable to a 196th attack. According to Commander Tha, he feared losing all his men killed. So, it was necessary to alter his focus to the 196th to avoid being “caught in the middle” and annihilated. Interesting stuff. I will most certainly learn more when the papers are translated.

The meal served in honor of Tha’s mother was an amazing display of dishes. We all ate until filled to the brim. Then it came time to, once again, say goodbye. I told Col. Tha to “not go anywhere” because I would be back next year! 

The overall respect that is bestowed upon me in Vietnam by everyone…young, old, former foes….is humbling. For example, yesterday some folks who recognized me from last year’s Vietnamese TV and newspaper stories, posed for photos. This is quite a journey.

Tomorrow morning I will be visiting The, Duong, and Thua.  A car has been hired with a 0800 start time. So, I’ll be back where I first joined my infantry company in Feb ’68 as green, fresh soldier.

After arriving in Da Nang and checking into the hotel, I visited Thong & family at his house. We made a motorbike run to a nearby grocery for the purpose of obtaining gifts for tomorrow’s visits.

That’s it for now. This boy is sort of weary tonight and will forgo proofing/refining this writing. More after tomorrow’s visits.

Neil


Major Tha 1972

Gifts for Tha

Memorial Meal

Memorial Altar for Tha's Mother

Wooden Pen Gift from Tha

Saying Goodbye

Neil Wearing Tha's Medical Smock/Hat

Incense and Displaying Respect for Tha's Mother

Wednesday, April 5, 2017

April 6, 2017 Nha Trang 0500 Vietnam Time

An 8-hour train journey transported Thong and I from Saigon to Nha Trang yesterday. Following check-in at the hotel, we taxied to a restaurant owned and operated by Thong's niece for a visit and something to eat. Very tasty dinner and great company.

It's way too early to be up, but I've been wide awake for a couple hours. That's unfortunate, as today is my third meeting with Col. Tha in as many trips....should be sharp and on my toes.  Unlike last year's event, published in all newspapers and broadcast on both local and national TV, today should be somewhat casual. You'll remember Col. Tha as the commander of the NVA forced with whom my unit fought at Nhi Ha (DMZ) May 6, 1968. Here are a couple articles from last year's meeting with my former foe:

Lt. Kimball Razor Retrieval

Copper River Record May 2016   ( I think that that it will download, then you can access from there)

Any way you cut it, meeting with Col. Tha is a sobering experience for me. The feeling derived from sitting with the man who led his battalion in battle against my infantry company, with numerous casualties on both sides, is impossible to describe. I find Tha to be a humble, sincere, and honorable man.

It's my understanding that this afternoon the government's veteran's council wishes to meet with me. I am very fortunate to have my good friend and interpreter, Thong (aka Damn Guide), by my side through all of this. It was Thong who, during my 'Nam return trip in 2010, was instrumental in helping me find Son, the "little girl" who was the embryo for this humanitarian program. Son lives on through our efforts....

I will post again to advise as to the events of the day.

Neil


Tuesday, April 4, 2017

April 5, 2017 Saigon 0200 Vietnam Time

After an unavoidable and unplanned overnight in Hong Kong, I arrived in Saigon yesterday late AM, spent an hour waiting for my visa processing, then taxied to my downtown hotel. I was greeted by Thong aka Damn Guide and Bee, the hotel manager. Thong and I walked to the bus ticketing office, purchasing two tickets for today's 0800 departure for Nha Trang. We will meet with Thong's niece in Nha Trang upon arrival today. Tomorrow will be the third meeting with Col. Tha, who you'll remember as my former enemy.

Realize that there is a significant time difference between Vietnam and U.S. points. For example, at this writing, it's 1100 hrs in Alaska and 1500 in my home state of Ohio...April 4. Here, we're talking 0200 April 5.

After so many hours in the air, coupled with the unexpected Hong Kong delay, my biological clock is all out of whack. With it going on 0200, though, I must try for sleep in order to make the 0630 opening bell for the hotel's breakfast buffet. Being bright-eyed and bushy-tailed probably isn't going to happen.  Dragging butt is more likely.

Later....

Neil




Monday, April 3, 2017

April 4, 2017 0730 Hong Kong, China

Well, well. How my Cathay Pacific flight could depart Los Angeles on time, yet arrive in Hong Kong one hour late is a mystery to me. Anyway, the late arrival caused  me to miss the connecting flight to Saigon yesterday. So, Cathay Pacific set me up with a voucher for a hotel here at the airport and meals. So, now I've worked through the security and additional screening...including a further search of my carry-on...and am at my departure gate. Arrival in Saigon is 1010 hrs...same flight as 2015 and 2016. Bottom line is that I'm into Saigon at 1010 April 4 instead of 1750 April 3. I manged to adjust the hotel reservation and have informed Thong of the change in plans. Now it's just tonight in Saigon with an early train or bus tomorrow to Nha Trang to meet, for the third time, with Col. Tha. Twists and turns.

The polluted air here in China is obvious by merely glancing out the window.  Couldn't and wouldn't inflict that upon myself.  Hey, isn't President Trump in China now?  Headlines read, "Trump & Hannan Arrive in China. Negotiations Scheduled".

With an anticipated plane to plane situation here, I was back on forth on whether to pack the Hong Kong power adapter.  I decided not to do so and now am down to a smidgen of power in this Macbook. Not a big deal, though.

The next transmission will be from 'Nam.

Neil

Monday, March 20, 2017

March 20, 2017 Alaska Homestead Pre-Trip Info

Thanks to all the caring folks from varying regions of the U.S. (and even several from Norway!) who have joined with me by contributing to this rewarding endeavor. I am truly humbled by your heartfelt generosity.

Things are reasonably organized, with funds transferred for advance guarantee of chickens near Hue and piglets & writing tablets at Nhi Ha. Everything else I'll handle on a day to day basis. Plus, situations arise that evoke an urgency inside me to act spontaneously. To me, this entire effort isn't about charity, as such. Rather, it's an opportunity to make a huge difference in the lives of disabled, impoverished, hard-working, and deserving villagers in Vietnam by providing them with the means (piglets, ducks, chickens) to support their families on an ongoing basis. It's about supplying school kids with writing tablets, cubbies, and such at the formerly blood-soaked, nightmarish killing field of Nhi Ha. It's about taking care of such men as Duong and Thua, who fought with my unit, the 196th Light Infantry Brigade. It's about fulfilling my promise to provide for Lady The, mother of the wounded little girl that I rescued in '68....Son. Really, it's about helping, healing, and building bridges.

As you'll recall, I initially had promised 5 piglets for Nhi Ha, but was really hoping to acquire adequate funding to supply 10. Well, thanks to a response from caring folks wishing to make this year's effort a landmark success, we are now in a position to supply 20 piglets! And, there will be 850 twenty-one-day-old chickens supplied to 17 families with disabilities at rural Vinh Phu!! Your response has "saved the day" and now I am confident that this trip is going to be simply stellar! I am honored to be your "grunt on the ground", as I was in 1968.

So, you have the blog address and can follow along. Daily entries are not always possible, but I'll try hard to keep you informed regularly. Thanks again to all who have contributed to helping and healing in Vietnam. The next transmission will be from Saigon, my arrival port. Back to 'Nam....
Neil aka "Kid" in '68